The next ride of our trip was the Route Of The Hiawatha in Idaho. This would be our 3rd time riding this trail, the other 2 times in 2002 and 2005. We’ve always said this is our favorite rail-to-trail. A hidden gem, in the forest covered Bitterroot mountains. Would this ride confirm what we’ve been saying for the past 16 years?
Early Friday morning we trucked the bikes from our hotel to the trailhead at the top in Montana. We chose to start at the top as it was a shorter drive. At the trailhead we noticed things seemed to have changed. A giant parking area, tents for purchasing passes and merchandise were set up (although no one manning them this early) and we don’t recall there being bathrooms. Only one other couple was there unloading bikes as we were. Once the bikes were unloaded we immediately rode into the 1.9 mile Taft tunnel and at some point in it’s darkness, crossed over into Idaho. Exiting the tunnel we were on our way down the trail passing through it’s many other tunnels, over it’s many trestles and making many stops to take it all in.
Was a gorgeous day. The tunnels, trestles and the scenery were just as spectacular as we recall them being. The historical signs still interesting to read. We even spotted a few things we hadn’t on previous rides. When we arrived at the bottom trailhead it seemed things had changed there also. Bathrooms and a few school busses waiting to shuttle those who choose to only ride down. We talked briefly to a shuttle bus driver who was a miner by trade but had been on strike for the past 18 months and took this job to help pay the bills. We ate a snack, made use of the bathroom and headed back up. The closer we got to the top, the trail got busy. I assume they were “one wayers” or “downhillers”. Many large groups and families. I even spotted a little tyke on a 12 inch wheeled bike. People were riding and standing all over the trail and a lot of them not paying attention to much of anything. Little kids climbing playing along the trestles. Reminded me of the busy Virginia Creeper trail which is well known for it’s downhill ride and shuttle back up. We talked to another person who while riding up, had a head on collision with a downhill rider who was on the wrong side of the trail and didn’t move over.
As our ride was ending and we were just about to exit the 1.9 mile Taft tunnel we encountered a group of riders stopped inside after just starting their ride. As soon as I passed them I heard a crash of bicycles. I assume someone fell over and then the domino effect. A minute later at the trailhead, someone came out of the tunnel seeking help and talking of a possible broken arm. We hung out at the trailhead a bit, buying our passes (after the fact) and some merch while scoping out the scene, a little drop jawed at the amount of people and all the commotion going on. We also had a nice chat with a couple who we’d met on the previous day’s ride.
So our little hidden gem of a trail has become pretty commercialized and busy. I have mixed feelings about it. Despite the commercialization of it and all the traffic though, I still believe it’s our favorite and should be on any trail riders bucket list. I would suggest riding on a weekday and starting early. Starting early and beginning at the top worked in our favor. Otherwise we’d been caught riding back down amongst the masses.
Our ride the next day would take us back up to the trailhead and I’ll talk a little more about that in the next blog post.
Ride video…
Ride photos…
I enjoyed reading your ride report, Randy and Nova. That’s really beautiful country but the commercialization and masses of riders sounds a bit troubling. I’m glad for you both that you completed your ride intact. I really enjoyed the videos, too. I’m a big rails to trails fan, too.
Thanks so much for reading, watching,and commenting. Rails-to-trails have made a pretty big impact on our lives..